Thanks Margo and Willowood...I don't use French/Tilbury tugs...so don't have the experience with them.
The trace wrapping is a good point Margo, and one I am surprised no one brought up(including me). Its just not good, especially when it is an easy fix! And if your traces are truely that long...what else on the harness is oversized that you are 'making do' with? There was a photo not too long ago with the shaft tips a fair bit in front of the shoulder, and yet, the traces were wrapped around the shafts?
Can someone (Margo, Breanna, Mindy) post a list of that kind of thing? Especially for snaffle vs. mullen mouth vs. liverpool vs. Mylar?
I have not had experience with all bits, not even most, or half....but a few basic 'bit' guidelines, as I've been taught them(when I use the word 'snaffle' I mean a bit with one break in the mouthpiece):
~Start out the gentlest bit. That way you can move up if the horse's mouth requires it.
~Snaffles/Mylars are independent sides(movable, at least) and so you can usually signal better with one side or the other.
~Mullens are good for some horses who have issues with snaffles, and can also be training bits. Not always as 'refined' a touch, as the whole bit moves with one side. However, I have found that most horses can differentiate the side-movement anyway, and it hasn't been a problem. A hard or thick mouthed horse would probably not go in a mullen.
~Curbs are advanced bits, not training bits. Depending on the horse, they can be moved up to one fairly quickly...some horses will never go in them, whether lack of more advanced training, the horse's preference, the driver's preference, or show rules(ie: A/R). There are different types for nearly anything, and the more proper driving bits are usually curbs. The ADS handbook I think still lists some of the 'proper' turnouts and what bits are preferred to go along with the turnout.
~Twisteds of any kind are never starting training bits. I personally wouldn't use a twisted on any horse unless it was 'remedial'(sp?) training and the horse had some severe problems in running through the bit or other stuff(in which case it may not be easy to bring the horse back anyway). In any case, not something I would like to see in any well trained horse's mouth.
~The hands make the bit severe...but its best to stay with the bit your horse goes best in.
These are just things I have as accepted parameters in using bits. There are so many different types and styles...that is why there are books out! The Mylar website is good for explaining what their different bits are for.