Where do you get the clickers

[cjmm10]

I decided to do something different this year & try clicker training. I've been training for

a long time but never with a clicker. I am training her to show in halter.

Please give me ideas on how to use this method. thanks everyone

 

[A Yankee In NC]

Petsmart sells clickers...

I got one there and it has a keyy chain attatched to it

good luck with your training...I am also just starting to read up on clicker training!

 

[hobbyhorse23]

I used one of the Petsmart clickers to get started as at first an oral "pop" sound didn't seem to be distinct enough for Kody to recognize but after he figured out the game I was able to switch from the mechanical clicker to a tongue noise which is much more convenient.

Amy is our resident expert so I'll let her reiterate some of the things she taught in her excellent clicker seminar a couple of weeks ago but I think generally you can start with targeting. Get your animal on the other side of some sort of safe divider like a stall door they can reach over and hold out something interesting like a cone or water bottle. When they touch it, click and treat. Wait patiently until they accidentally touch it again and repeat. Most horses don't take long to put it together and will reach out and touch the object on purpose as a test. Click and treat again. The game is on from there!

You can start moving the target around so they have to follow it and use the target to shape all sorts of other behaviors. Amy's got a great list of books to read for more specific training ideas.

Leia

 

[mininik]

Clickers can be found at many pet shops and are also available through many Online sources. I like to use the quieter, eaiser to handle iclicks offered at www.clickertraining.com That site also offers free clicker training information as well as an electronic clicker (the clicker+) that can produce various marker sounds.

Some clicker trainers prefer to use a distinct tongue pop, or word, but I prefer using a device as it makes communication with the animal you are working with that much clearer. Noise made by us humans often varies depending upon many factors and some animals will have actually tuned us out if we are too noisy in our interactions. No matter what you use as a marker it will need to be "charged" so the animal understands that click = treat. The sound should remain consistant and timing is critical. Eventually you will phase out the clicker as a behavior is learned, using it mainly to up the criteria.

I incorporate clicker training into the dog sports I train in, as well as for fun with my pets (including birds, dwarf hamsters and pony). It's amazing what you can teach your critters this way, without the need for coercive methods. If you've ever wondered how they get Shamu and friends to do their fascinating stunts, these methods are it.

 

[Sassy'sMom]

What kind of treats do you use when you do clicker training. I just purchased one of the clicker training starter kits from clickertraining.com. But, I don't want to give my horses treats that are bad for them, what do you that use this method suggest as a treat that they can have? Thanks!!

 

[Doobie]

I got my clicker from a local small vet who also trains dogs.

I use Apple cubes for a treat/reward.

 

[ClickMini]

All good information listed above.

As for treats, I always use their regular fortified feed or a hay pellet. Just make sure that you subtract what you use as treats from their standard ration. They are just working for part of their meals. Just give a tiny bit at a time.

In addition to the ones listed above, here are some great web sites you can go look at:

http://www.theclickercenter.com

http://www.equineclickertraining.com

http://www.clickryder.com

http://www.zenhorsemanship.com

Must-have books to read:

Karen Pryor, Don't Shoot the Dog

Alexandra Kurland, The Click That Teaches, a Step-By-Step Guide in Pictures

Video:

Alexandra Kurland, An Introduction to Clicker Training (http://theclickercenter.com/2004/store/vids01.php)

A few basic rules:

Safety:

start with protected contact...your horse on the other side of a gate so you can step back if they get over-enthusiastic.

Extend your arm fully out away from your body when you deliver the treat, if you feed close-in your horse will be all over you before you know it.

Other important points:

The order you teach things matter! Whatever your horse learns first is the default they will go to when they are stressed or confused. So do NOT start by teaching rearing, etc. The order I teach things is:

1. Targeting behind protected contact

2. Ears forward from behind protected contact

3. Head Lowering

4. Stand on a mat

5. Backing

6. "At-ease" or, "The Grownups are Talking" lesson

Once these behaviors are solid, you can begin to do some more specialty stuff. These are the foundation behaviors for everything.

Almost all behavior contains multiple criteria. Make sure you identify all of your criteria and are very clear about what your finished behavior will look like. Then go back, teach one criteria at a time, and remember that you need to relax the criteria quality when you add in the next layer.

Example...you want to teach your horse to do a show pose. What is involved?

Stand still

Feet square

Weight back

Tummy tight

Neck lifted

Neck extended

Ears up

Chin lifted

Eyes bright and sparkling

See the difference? LUMPING criteria would mean you write down "Teach a show pose." SPLITTING criteria means you really figure out all of the criteria involved in a behavior, teach them separately, then recombine. Be a splitter, not a lumper!

Make sure your body stays as quiet as possible when you are working with your horse. Avoid adding in a lot of "noise."

And one final very important point...KEEP YOUR HAND OUT OF THE COOKIE JAR until AFTER YOU HAVE CLICKED!!! If you habitually keep your hand in your treat pocket or pouch, that is where 80% of your horse's focus will be. He may get anxious and impatient. If you stay away from the treats while asking for a behavior, your horse will concentrate on what it is he needs to do to in order to make you click and treat. This definitely will make a difference in your success level.

It is a fun and forgiving training program and anyone can learn it. Good luck, have fun, and if you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.

 

[hobbyhorse23]

Thank you Amy! That is perfect and you just summed up the most helpful parts of your clinic.

I will be printing that out for future reference. The other thing you brought up in Longview that I found helpful was presenting the back of your hand first for the horse to run into then flipping it over to allow them to take the food. Kody grabs (a LOT!) and if I'd known that earlier we might not have such a problem.

Leia