Building my own cart

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Don't forget that bicycle wheels are NOT appropriate for carts, as they are not designed for lateral load. A bicycle puts the weight and stress directly over the wheel, whereas a cart (with an axle) places the weight on the axle, thus creating the lateral stress.

CTM Products has heavy duty wheels, 20" on their cart parts page, 24" on cart accessories, with a wide hub and thick spokes (I don't know if they're adjustable or not), as well as other parts that may prove simpler than fabricating.
 
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I'm not saying the CTM wheels are different from or better than the Harbor Freight wheels -- who knows, that may be their source. I'm only saying that bicycle wheels are not the same as cart wheels, so don't buy from a bicycle shop (unless they just happen by some fluke to sell cart wheels).
 
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Suzanne it really depends on how you build the wheel... lacing pattern, spoke gauge, rim weight, hub width... agreed that off the shelf kid's bike wheels should be treated with caution!
 
Might as well kill another thread by responding......

Both Fox and Miss Susanne are correct. Yes everything depends on how you build the wheel. However Miss Susanne's comments re. lat. loading are of supreme importance. In carts, lateral loading is THE big fat hairy issue. Near any wheel can handle vert. loading. Few can handle lateral loading because they are not built for that. Choosing and matching the correct components to adequately address this given is very important.

Hey, notice the yellow rig with multiple wheel call-outs, looked to be about 2" apart.... pretty cool.

Bb
 
I agree about the wheels- I was told all this by the bike shop I approached- very nice, very helpful man - told me quite honestly that it would be dangerous to use bicycle wheels- and he had them for sale so how honest is that?- I have also seen for myself what can happen when a cart with the incorrect wheels turns a corner too fast and turns over, putting the pressure on the wheels- they just crumple! It was amazing and, luckily, there was no-one in the cart. We were not even going fast. I was able to salvage the situation as I was already on the ground, but it could have been SO nasty.
 
There's little arguement that the weakest part of a cart is the wheels if you're using spoke wheels with pnuematic tires. Good ones are hard to find, and not cheap anymore. I was using one of my carts for therapeutic driving some time ago, and that required that an experienced drive had to be on the cart along with the student. I was using a cart that was set up with a straight axle 3/4" in diameter. I was able to replace the original axle with a longer one, and put 2 wheels on each end. My own "Dually" It wasen't pretty, but it worked very well. You had to stay on a fairly firm surface, but it did do the job I needed it to do.
 
The Harbor Freight wheels are at least 1" wider in the hub, and have thicker spokes but the spokes are not adjustable. They are definately better than Bicycle wheels but not by a lot. I have yet to "Taco" one but I dont work them as hard as a CDE cart would in the obsticles. If I could find a good spoked rim for pneumatic tires Id be willing to pay more. I just havent found them yet. I have even thought of making some from sheet aluminum. DR
 
Heres two Ive built. The seats are off being upolstered, but it gives you a better look at the axle arangement. These are both for B minis, So I set them up to be adjustable for hight, the axles will move forward or back for gross balance adjustment. The seats also move for fine adjustment. Then I can lean to make the shafts float.
I just bought a cart very similar to the yellow one. what is the design called?
 
I commented on this topic early on and I'm happy to se that it has again come to the top. Since the early comments, a source for very nice wheels has become available. Kingston Saddlery is offering wheels that have steel spokes and hard rubber tires. These wheels very closely resemble wood wheels, but don't require sanding and preparation and are very well suited for do-it-yourselfers. They are strong enough for any use I've found so far and are acceptable for use in Carriage shows and CDE's. These wheels are not cheap, but at around 230.00 per pair including shipping I feel they are a good value. That is comparable to wood wheels and these don't require sanding and finishing. They also won't "taco" and no tubes to go flat. They are available to fit 5/8 o 3/4 inch axles have good quality bearings, and have grease zerts for easy greasing. I've recently refit one 4 wheel cart with them and recently built a two wheel cart using them and am impressed so far. These wheels are the type that are ecoming very popular on many high end carts and carriages. I'd like to hear other opinions on these from others who may have tried them.

I and a friend just completed a two wheel cart for a family with a 3 1/2 year old sone who has Muscular Distrophy. This cart was built using 1" channel steel for the frame and the floor is flat with a ramp so his wheelchair can be rolled onto it and fastened securely in place. There is a seat for a driver next to the chair, and so far it is working well. We did have a little cjhallenge getting the balance the way we wanted, but were able to get it to the point that we have about 20# of weight on the horse when loaded, We are wrking on some refinements for a cart of this design to reduce the overall weight and hope to have some available by next Spring.

If I can figure out how to put pictures on here (I'm better at building carts than using a computer) I'll post a picture of the cart.
 
I would love to see the carts that you've built. If you can send the pictures to me, I'd be happy to load them for you. my personal email is purplepaint pony @ yahoo dot com. Just take the spaces out.
 
The most basic EEs, such as the original Frontier, and the CTM, have only a coil spring under each end of the seat, and that is MINIMAL for any comfort to the ride.As far as I can tell from photos, the Hyperbike, which many love( and I like, but don't find suitable for my own use), has no 'specific' suspension system, but relies on an overall 'flexibility' for its 'ride cushion'....perhaps the builder will comment? I like the look of the two built by DR; but would love to know what kind of suspension they will have?

Also---- with the kind of wheels mentioned by horsenaround, where there is not an air-filled tire(Air-filling does have one benefit; it does give 'some' cushion to the ride; also, the lower weight of pneumatics is usually a plus, as they are usually much lighter than any alternative), in a cart without , or with a very minimal, suspension system (like the coil spring, for example), what is one to do about some sort of reasonable suspension system? I have read of, but have no personal experience with, changing out coil springs for the C springs, for at least 'some' improvement--but would love to hear the experience of anyone who has done such!

There can be some real drawbacks to pneumatic tires, ESPECIALLY if they aren't specific to the use you desire them for.My 'genuine' Frontier came w/ HD tires w/ 5" hubs; suitable for cart use;not 'just' bike tires.Something to consider w/ any air-filled wheels(tires)....the possibility of a loud blow out...have read more than one story of disastrous results. Too,a flat when you are 'out and about' can mean a long WALK home. For these reasons, I plan to look into the Kingston wheels mentioned when replacements are needed for my Frontier, which have puncture-resistant tubes and 'green goop' in them, and have so far served me well in basic driving...(but NOT CDE or anything of the like!)
 
Margo C-T you make some very good points, and these are all things you need to consider when building your own cart, or when you try to retrofit an existing cart. I've had some success with changing from the coik springs to "C" springs. Usually the coild springs will break at some point, and that's when you can most easily switch to the "C" springs. If you have or can make a flat surface to mount them to, its easy to just put them on the frame under the seat at the same place the coil springs were mounted. As far as springs for the seat go, I'm trying a new idea, repurposing school bus seat cushions. I drive a school but, and the company I drive for has a garage full of the cushions. They are 36" wide, very nicely upholstered,have good quality springs inside and also hace heavy duty foam. I figure if those cushions are comfortable enough to ride several hours on a field trip or even an hour or so to school, they are way better than most of the seats you get on a basic EE cart with 2" foam cushion. I'll come back on here to provide an update.

As far as the wheels are concerned, you are right on there too. The solid rubber tired wheels don't provide any cushioning, but I feel the trade off is the no flats, strength of wheel and looks of the wheels. Just my opinion, everyone is entitled to theirs.

I did have a cart that had the best suspension I've ever used, it had elliptical springs under the seat, one on each side, mounted lengthwise, You can get the cart from Fairview Country Sales, Millersburg OH. No website, but phone is 330-359-1501. Problem is, the smallest cart is pony size, and is too big for anything under about 36". They do have very nice wire wheels in a variety of sizes, and also list the flat-free inserts for pnuematic tires.

Building your own cart can be a lot of fun, and with some imagination you can find new solutions for some nagging problems, but can be frustrating, too.
 
I ended up picking up some wheels at the national drive. 4 sets actually. They are steel with rubber. They came off the polish marathon carts because the people upgraded before they drove them so the wheels are brand new. I still can't beleive what we got them for.
 
We have had a hard time finding a cart with 65 shafts so we made one. I couldn't find the wheels though. We ended up getting them for $20 a tire! Can't beat that .
 

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