barnbum
Well-Known Member
Notes from clinic:
Deworming based on “Get Rotation Right” by Intervet. The information was presented by Dr. Wendy Vaala from Wisconsin.
The trouble is when one is deworming too often, underdosing, deworming every horse the same, over stocking pastures, not picking up manure, and/or not practicing biosecurity such as quarantining new horses for two weeks. These needs to be done for viruses as well as worm issues.
Resistance is becoming a problem. Random mutation is happening. There have been no new drugs for parasites in 25 years. All species and parasites are at risk.
Never deworm more often than a chemicals ERP—egg reappearance period. It contributes to resistance issues. Never deworm for under the weight of the horse, this also contributes to resistance issues.
If a field is harrowed, it needs to be rested for a min of 1 month.
Foals are most susceptible to worms and need to have Ivermectrin at 8 weeks—NO sooner. Then they need to have a five day, double dose of Panacur, but not before 60 days has passed. Ascarides are most dangerous to foals to age 18 months. Always deworm a mare after she foals.
It’s better to overdose, never underdose. It doesn’t do the job. Know your horse’s weight. The weight tapes made by Purina were thought to be the best ones. For minis, there’s a calculator that tells how to adjust the tape’s numbers. I haven’t found it yet, but there are sites to help calculate a horse’s weight by adding in their girth and length measurements (point of withers to point of rump). Search “horse weight calculator” and you’ll find it.
Never deworm horses on the same day they get vaccines. Deworm, then vaccinate the next day.
If one has a hot dry summer (85 and over kills many of the worms) and a winter where it’s frozen (doesn’t kill them but their hibernating), no deworming is necessary.
20% of horses are low egg shedders and only need to be treated twice a year—spring and fall.
60% of horses are moderate egg shedders and need about 4 treatments a year.
20% of horses are high egg shedders and need 5-6 treatments. Foals should be treated as high shedders.
Most important times to deworm are after bot season, after there has been a hard frost, and in the spring when the new growth is coming and the temps are warming up.
Best way to take care of bots is to put a sponge with hot water on them and they’ll hatch. The shell stays on the horse, but the egg will be gone.
Most dewormers have a very wide safety zone, except Quest. That one can be trouble because it must be given in the exact amount for the weight of the animal. Mini folks usually avoid that one. What happened with Q is the makers of it sent all the warnings to the vets, but then put it on the shelf without all the warnings. Many horses suffered because of that and vets were called on to treat many horses in trouble. It’s not safe for foals under 6 months. (Just choose something else!)
What every horse must have: to be treated for large strongyles twice a year. Ivermectin or a Panacur Power Dose works well. Treatment for tapeworm-once a year. Praziquantel or a double dose of Strongid works for this.
Pinworms can be checked for by putting a piece of Scotch tape on the outside of the horse’s anus and taking that to the vet to check. Tail rubbing is the biggest signs they are present. Some suggest an enema of Strongid.
Fecal samples can be very helpful. They do not detect all parasites; many can miss a tapeworm, encrusted small strongyles, and parasites in juvenile stages. However, fecal samples can be very helpful. The best time to collect is after the last used drug is out of the horse’s system and before deworming. Then one can do another fecal check two weeks after deworming to see how it’s working. A fecal check the day after treating for tapeworms, will show if one was present.
For samples, fresher is better. Steaming is best. Grab 2-3 balls of manure and place in a Ziplock baggie. Take it straight to the vet. If that’s impossible, put it in the fridge. If it’s not kept cool, the eggs will hatch. It can stay up to two weeks in the fridge. On the bag write the horse’s name, date, last drug used to deworm, and when it was given.
Heaves: now called RAO. Most important message is to treat even mild cases to prevent permanent scarring. Mild heave symptoms include an occasional cough, clearing of the throat especially during warming up for exercise, and a white nasal discharge.
Hay nets are not a good idea—the horse was built to eat with its trachea down. Any other way increased its exposure to dust.
Using round bales is fine, but they need to be under a shelter.
Laminitis: The best way to go is to prevent it if possible. An overweight horse is the biggest cause and the easiest to prevent. One vet said watching it coming is like watching a car crash when there’s nothing you can do to stop it. The info on minis specifically was they do not need grain. Horses who can maintain weight on hay should just get hay. Vitamin/mineral supplements are recommended. One vet said he tells owners of minis to keep them in a dry lot—and muzzle them if they are on grass.
Deworming based on “Get Rotation Right” by Intervet. The information was presented by Dr. Wendy Vaala from Wisconsin.
The trouble is when one is deworming too often, underdosing, deworming every horse the same, over stocking pastures, not picking up manure, and/or not practicing biosecurity such as quarantining new horses for two weeks. These needs to be done for viruses as well as worm issues.
Resistance is becoming a problem. Random mutation is happening. There have been no new drugs for parasites in 25 years. All species and parasites are at risk.
Never deworm more often than a chemicals ERP—egg reappearance period. It contributes to resistance issues. Never deworm for under the weight of the horse, this also contributes to resistance issues.
If a field is harrowed, it needs to be rested for a min of 1 month.
Foals are most susceptible to worms and need to have Ivermectrin at 8 weeks—NO sooner. Then they need to have a five day, double dose of Panacur, but not before 60 days has passed. Ascarides are most dangerous to foals to age 18 months. Always deworm a mare after she foals.
It’s better to overdose, never underdose. It doesn’t do the job. Know your horse’s weight. The weight tapes made by Purina were thought to be the best ones. For minis, there’s a calculator that tells how to adjust the tape’s numbers. I haven’t found it yet, but there are sites to help calculate a horse’s weight by adding in their girth and length measurements (point of withers to point of rump). Search “horse weight calculator” and you’ll find it.
Never deworm horses on the same day they get vaccines. Deworm, then vaccinate the next day.
If one has a hot dry summer (85 and over kills many of the worms) and a winter where it’s frozen (doesn’t kill them but their hibernating), no deworming is necessary.
20% of horses are low egg shedders and only need to be treated twice a year—spring and fall.
60% of horses are moderate egg shedders and need about 4 treatments a year.
20% of horses are high egg shedders and need 5-6 treatments. Foals should be treated as high shedders.
Most important times to deworm are after bot season, after there has been a hard frost, and in the spring when the new growth is coming and the temps are warming up.
Best way to take care of bots is to put a sponge with hot water on them and they’ll hatch. The shell stays on the horse, but the egg will be gone.
Most dewormers have a very wide safety zone, except Quest. That one can be trouble because it must be given in the exact amount for the weight of the animal. Mini folks usually avoid that one. What happened with Q is the makers of it sent all the warnings to the vets, but then put it on the shelf without all the warnings. Many horses suffered because of that and vets were called on to treat many horses in trouble. It’s not safe for foals under 6 months. (Just choose something else!)
What every horse must have: to be treated for large strongyles twice a year. Ivermectin or a Panacur Power Dose works well. Treatment for tapeworm-once a year. Praziquantel or a double dose of Strongid works for this.
Pinworms can be checked for by putting a piece of Scotch tape on the outside of the horse’s anus and taking that to the vet to check. Tail rubbing is the biggest signs they are present. Some suggest an enema of Strongid.
Fecal samples can be very helpful. They do not detect all parasites; many can miss a tapeworm, encrusted small strongyles, and parasites in juvenile stages. However, fecal samples can be very helpful. The best time to collect is after the last used drug is out of the horse’s system and before deworming. Then one can do another fecal check two weeks after deworming to see how it’s working. A fecal check the day after treating for tapeworms, will show if one was present.
For samples, fresher is better. Steaming is best. Grab 2-3 balls of manure and place in a Ziplock baggie. Take it straight to the vet. If that’s impossible, put it in the fridge. If it’s not kept cool, the eggs will hatch. It can stay up to two weeks in the fridge. On the bag write the horse’s name, date, last drug used to deworm, and when it was given.
Heaves: now called RAO. Most important message is to treat even mild cases to prevent permanent scarring. Mild heave symptoms include an occasional cough, clearing of the throat especially during warming up for exercise, and a white nasal discharge.
Hay nets are not a good idea—the horse was built to eat with its trachea down. Any other way increased its exposure to dust.
Using round bales is fine, but they need to be under a shelter.
Laminitis: The best way to go is to prevent it if possible. An overweight horse is the biggest cause and the easiest to prevent. One vet said watching it coming is like watching a car crash when there’s nothing you can do to stop it. The info on minis specifically was they do not need grain. Horses who can maintain weight on hay should just get hay. Vitamin/mineral supplements are recommended. One vet said he tells owners of minis to keep them in a dry lot—and muzzle them if they are on grass.
