MiniLover2006
Well-Known Member
I was just wondering, what wormer should I buy for my miniature horse? Which one would you recommend?
Thanks so much!
Thanks so much!
Most used Miniature horse wormer?
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Matt73
Well-Known Member
Hi
The only way to get rid of the majority of worms is to use a rotational worming system. By taking into account the time of year and other factor, one uses the correct wormer that coincides with the parasites that are most prevalent -life cycles etc. play a factor, too-. I use Ivermectin, Fenbendazole, and Pyrantel Pamoate -there are various brand names for these types of wormers-. I would suggest doing a search on here to find a program that best suits your horse's particular needs -environment etc.-. Here's a great example of a good worming system with an explanation that I found on another site -there's a bit about Quest in it...DON'T USE QUEST ON MINIS!!!!!:
This is my BI-monthly worming plan based on a rotation of anthelmintic that is best used during each season. Each horse WILL be required to participate in this strategic plan.
January
February - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
March
April - Double Dose Pyrantel Pamoate
May
June - Ivermectin single dose
July
August - Ivermectin single dose
September
October - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
November
December - Ivermectin single dose
Explination:
Ivermectin should be used through out the entire grazing season.
Pyrantel Pamoate's should be used early spring and late fall
Ivermectin should be used late winter when contracting 'grazing season' worms is limited if at all, this eliminates any residual summer worms and is most effective as they are not likely to be ingested again until spring.
Worming for encysted Redworms also known as Strongyles is THE most important worm to eliminate. This is accomplished with a five-day course of Fenbendazole administered at a double dose. The reason you have to administer so much wormer for this specific worm is because it has a very slow metabolism, and a single dose simply doesn't phase it. The wormer only stays in the horses system for about 16 hours and the worm's lives on. But even if you were to give just a double dose in one go, these worms have the ability to ''insist'' themselves into our horses which makes the pretty much invincible. Doing this 5 days in a row, is the only known way to rid the body of up to 90+% of strongyles. It WILL NOT hurt your horse, Safeguard is an amazing product and the name directly effects its potency, its SAFE! Why are Strongyles so bad? Because they most common and most destructive of all-internal parasites in the equine!
Quest is by far the most controversial equine wormer available to us horse persons!
Quest is absorbed into the fat cells of your horse. Making it a fat-soluble wormer (this is why you do NOT worm foals with this product). Therefore it is stored in your horse’s fat cells and released slowly into your horses system. Thus extending the length of time between wormers. Generally you do NOT worm for at least 3 months after using the product.
Now because it is a fat-soluble wormer (gel), it is also absorbed into brain tissue. This can cause your horse to become uncoordinated among other signs of nervous system toxicity. This may also effect the horse with out you physically able to see it. An overdose would produce noticeable side effects, seizures/comma/death being only the most serious of many.
Other problems with this wormer are the fact that it is possibly ‘to good a wormer’, meaning it is so effective in a single dose that horses that are debilitated or carrying heavy worm burdens could quite easily become impacted/colic due to the large die off of worms in their bodies.
The worst equine worm horse owners need to worry about is encysted strongyles. The hype is that Quest does a good job at killing encysted strongyles (among many others). Although yes it does a decent job because it sticks around in the body for a substantial amount of time – it is not as effective as a double dose of fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days in a row. Either way there are other options to remove encysted strongyles without using Quest.
So, we do have a very effective and safe alternative to quest in regards to eliminating Redworms or Strongyles, which ever you prefer to call them. Ivermectin is more effective then quest in eliminating bots, and our Pyrantel pamoate’s do a great job eliminating tapes. Quest does not need to be incorporated in a routine worming plan at all, but it as all personal choice and preference.
I personally will never incorporate the product into my worming plan as I cannot for the life of me understand why if you have other safer options, you would take the risk. Quest can be potentially hazardous at a mere 5x the recommend dose. That is VERY low, especially when you compare it to all the other wormers we have on the market. Ivermectin can be administered at 60x the dose and still not cause serious problems, fenbendazole at 100-200 times the dose and studies have shown that even then there wasn’t any signs of problems. My point is I am not about to use a product that is potentially lethal at such an incredibly low overdose. It simply has more toxicity in our horse’s bodies
Hope that helps!!
The only way to get rid of the majority of worms is to use a rotational worming system. By taking into account the time of year and other factor, one uses the correct wormer that coincides with the parasites that are most prevalent -life cycles etc. play a factor, too-. I use Ivermectin, Fenbendazole, and Pyrantel Pamoate -there are various brand names for these types of wormers-. I would suggest doing a search on here to find a program that best suits your horse's particular needs -environment etc.-. Here's a great example of a good worming system with an explanation that I found on another site -there's a bit about Quest in it...DON'T USE QUEST ON MINIS!!!!!:
This is my BI-monthly worming plan based on a rotation of anthelmintic that is best used during each season. Each horse WILL be required to participate in this strategic plan.
January
February - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
March
April - Double Dose Pyrantel Pamoate
May
June - Ivermectin single dose
July
August - Ivermectin single dose
September
October - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
November
December - Ivermectin single dose
Explination:
Ivermectin should be used through out the entire grazing season.
Pyrantel Pamoate's should be used early spring and late fall
Ivermectin should be used late winter when contracting 'grazing season' worms is limited if at all, this eliminates any residual summer worms and is most effective as they are not likely to be ingested again until spring.
Worming for encysted Redworms also known as Strongyles is THE most important worm to eliminate. This is accomplished with a five-day course of Fenbendazole administered at a double dose. The reason you have to administer so much wormer for this specific worm is because it has a very slow metabolism, and a single dose simply doesn't phase it. The wormer only stays in the horses system for about 16 hours and the worm's lives on. But even if you were to give just a double dose in one go, these worms have the ability to ''insist'' themselves into our horses which makes the pretty much invincible. Doing this 5 days in a row, is the only known way to rid the body of up to 90+% of strongyles. It WILL NOT hurt your horse, Safeguard is an amazing product and the name directly effects its potency, its SAFE! Why are Strongyles so bad? Because they most common and most destructive of all-internal parasites in the equine!
Quest is by far the most controversial equine wormer available to us horse persons!
Quest is absorbed into the fat cells of your horse. Making it a fat-soluble wormer (this is why you do NOT worm foals with this product). Therefore it is stored in your horse’s fat cells and released slowly into your horses system. Thus extending the length of time between wormers. Generally you do NOT worm for at least 3 months after using the product.
Now because it is a fat-soluble wormer (gel), it is also absorbed into brain tissue. This can cause your horse to become uncoordinated among other signs of nervous system toxicity. This may also effect the horse with out you physically able to see it. An overdose would produce noticeable side effects, seizures/comma/death being only the most serious of many.
Other problems with this wormer are the fact that it is possibly ‘to good a wormer’, meaning it is so effective in a single dose that horses that are debilitated or carrying heavy worm burdens could quite easily become impacted/colic due to the large die off of worms in their bodies.
The worst equine worm horse owners need to worry about is encysted strongyles. The hype is that Quest does a good job at killing encysted strongyles (among many others). Although yes it does a decent job because it sticks around in the body for a substantial amount of time – it is not as effective as a double dose of fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days in a row. Either way there are other options to remove encysted strongyles without using Quest.
So, we do have a very effective and safe alternative to quest in regards to eliminating Redworms or Strongyles, which ever you prefer to call them. Ivermectin is more effective then quest in eliminating bots, and our Pyrantel pamoate’s do a great job eliminating tapes. Quest does not need to be incorporated in a routine worming plan at all, but it as all personal choice and preference.
I personally will never incorporate the product into my worming plan as I cannot for the life of me understand why if you have other safer options, you would take the risk. Quest can be potentially hazardous at a mere 5x the recommend dose. That is VERY low, especially when you compare it to all the other wormers we have on the market. Ivermectin can be administered at 60x the dose and still not cause serious problems, fenbendazole at 100-200 times the dose and studies have shown that even then there wasn’t any signs of problems. My point is I am not about to use a product that is potentially lethal at such an incredibly low overdose. It simply has more toxicity in our horse’s bodies
Hope that helps!!
Naomi + Oliver + Dainty
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Hi there!I was just wondering, what wormer should I buy for my miniature horse? Which one would you recommend?
Thanks so much!
Im canadian so I dont know exactly what brands you have down there, but the main 3 are Ivermectin, strongid and panacur and there is also anthelcide and benzelmin. Just please dont use Quest dewormers as it can be very toxic and can even cause death ( esp in miniatures!) Matt pretty much sums it up for you! He must type quickly too as the post wasnt there when I started lol!!
Hope that helps!
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MiniLover2006
Well-Known Member
Ok, I will not use Quest on my Miniature.
Right now I use Safeguard on my big horse.
"January
February - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
March
April - Double Dose Pyrantel Pamoate
May
June - Ivermectin single dose
July
August - Ivermectin single dose
September
October - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
November
December - Ivermectin single dose"
I will keep this in mind when I have to worm my Miniature in december. He was already wormed in october.
Safe guard has Fenbendazole ingredient, right?
I want to put him on a Bi-monthly worming program so this is a great start....Thank You!
Matt73- That was very helpfull!
Naomi + Oliver + Dainty- LoL! Thanks!
:aktion033: :bgrin
Right now I use Safeguard on my big horse.
"January
February - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
March
April - Double Dose Pyrantel Pamoate
May
June - Ivermectin single dose
July
August - Ivermectin single dose
September
October - Double Dose Fenbendazole for 5 consecutive days
November
December - Ivermectin single dose"
I will keep this in mind when I have to worm my Miniature in december. He was already wormed in october.
Safe guard has Fenbendazole ingredient, right?
I want to put him on a Bi-monthly worming program so this is a great start....Thank You!
Matt73- That was very helpfull!
Naomi + Oliver + Dainty- LoL! Thanks!
:aktion033: :bgrin
rabbitsfizz
Well-Known Member
Fenbendazole only lasts six weeks.!!
Ivermectin is an ingredient, Strongid and Panacur are brand names!!
So, Ivermectin, Pyrantel Pamoate (if that is what you wish to use for Tapeworms, I preferr Praziquantel) and Fenbendazole are active ingredients, and any generic wormer using these ingredients can be used.
Go t the main Menu and click on the "best of" forum and you will find most of this covered there.
Ivermectin is an ingredient, Strongid and Panacur are brand names!!
So, Ivermectin, Pyrantel Pamoate (if that is what you wish to use for Tapeworms, I preferr Praziquantel) and Fenbendazole are active ingredients, and any generic wormer using these ingredients can be used.
Go t the main Menu and click on the "best of" forum and you will find most of this covered there.
The above schedule would be totally excessive for my horses in our area. I rotate ensuring ivermectin is used after frost for bots. My adults are dosed 3 times a year and horses under two every 6-8 weeks. Took samples from different corrals to the clinic for egg count check and was virtually worm free.
rabbitsfizz
Well-Known Member
AJ I suggest you stop worming altogether and just take a worm sample.
If your land is worm free and your horses are worm free there really is little sense in worming at all!!
Very, very few people are this lucky however, and as the wormers only last for six weeks in the case of Fenbendazole and eight weeks in the case of Ivermectin, the advice given is correct for most people.
If your land is worm free and your horses are worm free there really is little sense in worming at all!!
Very, very few people are this lucky however, and as the wormers only last for six weeks in the case of Fenbendazole and eight weeks in the case of Ivermectin, the advice given is correct for most people.
rabbitsfizz
Well-Known Member
Whatever programme you choose to use it is pointless without a yearly worm count.
It is only by doing this fairly cheap process that you can be sure that your programme is working.
Of course faecal samples will not always show Tapeworms- if you suspect a tapeworm infestation you should have a blood test done.
It is only by doing this fairly cheap process that you can be sure that your programme is working.
Of course faecal samples will not always show Tapeworms- if you suspect a tapeworm infestation you should have a blood test done.
Quote (AJ I suggest you stop worming altogether and just take a worm sample.
If your land is worm free and your horses are worm free there really is little sense in worming at all!!)
Rabbit - I assume this is a sarcastic comment as I assumed my satisfactory "fecal count" results were due to my adequate worming program and NOT because I don't need to worm or think we are worm free here.
If your land is worm free and your horses are worm free there really is little sense in worming at all!!)
Rabbit - I assume this is a sarcastic comment as I assumed my satisfactory "fecal count" results were due to my adequate worming program and NOT because I don't need to worm or think we are worm free here.
rabbitsfizz
Well-Known Member
No, honest!!!
No sarcasm- I obviously did not mean altogether as in completely, (sorry about that- Yes, it does look a bit abrupt) but I would certainly start cutting back to the bare minimum needed- I am all for faecal counts and clean land- Kudos to you!!
What I meant was do the faecal count before the worming and only worm if needed- should be clearer, I know, not thinking straight at the moment!!
No sarcasm- I obviously did not mean altogether as in completely, (sorry about that- Yes, it does look a bit abrupt) but I would certainly start cutting back to the bare minimum needed- I am all for faecal counts and clean land- Kudos to you!!
What I meant was do the faecal count before the worming and only worm if needed- should be clearer, I know, not thinking straight at the moment!!
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NyborFarm
Well-Known Member
Personally I would not use Quest on any horse.
Here we use (have always used) Rotection also known as Rotation. Its given every two months in a rotation (probably hence the name! :bgrin ) 1 is given between January/February 2 is given between March/April 1 again between May/June and so on. Its worked for us for roughly 15 years now.
Here we use (have always used) Rotection also known as Rotation. Its given every two months in a rotation (probably hence the name! :bgrin ) 1 is given between January/February 2 is given between March/April 1 again between May/June and so on. Its worked for us for roughly 15 years now.
Nathan Luszcz
Well-Known Member
Interestingly enough, there is research to show that Quest is kinder than the Panacur PowerPak for severe infestations because Quest kills slower and allows the endotoxins time to be removed from the blood.
Quest is perfectly safe for horses that are healthy and have enough fat. Apparently minis don't have enough fat, but that doesn't make Quest any less safe for "normal" horses. I've wormed hundreds of horses with Quest, never had a single problem. Even overdosed a few by accident. Research says a 2x overdose is not a significant danger. 3x overdose is fatal.
Quest is perfectly safe for horses that are healthy and have enough fat. Apparently minis don't have enough fat, but that doesn't make Quest any less safe for "normal" horses. I've wormed hundreds of horses with Quest, never had a single problem. Even overdosed a few by accident. Research says a 2x overdose is not a significant danger. 3x overdose is fatal.
NyborFarm
Well-Known Member
Ive heard too many horror stories about it and since we dont use it I wouldn't for fear of worst case senario.
White Socks Miniature
Well-Known Member
Hi!
Quest should really be measured by how much body fat, (not by % but by weight) the horse has and not on how much the horse weighs in total as quest is absorbed into body fats. Some horses are more lean, and others are more chunky, so a horse that is leaner can easily be overdosed, and a horse that is heavier can be underdosed. And because quest can be fatal or cause other neurological problems at such a low overdose rate is why it should be used cautiously in large horses and not at all in minis. Its just too great a risk to give something that has caused so many problems.
JMHO tho!
Quest should really be measured by how much body fat, (not by % but by weight) the horse has and not on how much the horse weighs in total as quest is absorbed into body fats. Some horses are more lean, and others are more chunky, so a horse that is leaner can easily be overdosed, and a horse that is heavier can be underdosed. And because quest can be fatal or cause other neurological problems at such a low overdose rate is why it should be used cautiously in large horses and not at all in minis. Its just too great a risk to give something that has caused so many problems.
JMHO tho!
Nathan Luszcz
Well-Known Member
Research disagrees. Minis aside, full sized horses are well documented as far as safety.
rabbitsfizz
Well-Known Member
Well, no, again I'm afraid.
If you do a search on big horse Forums you will find it is not always safe in anything.
As far as I am concerned it is a risk I am not willing to take, and I do not know anyone on here that would, either.
If you do a search on big horse Forums you will find it is not always safe in anything.
As far as I am concerned it is a risk I am not willing to take, and I do not know anyone on here that would, either.
Nathan Luszcz
Well-Known Member
I would. I've been using it for years, on hundreds of horses, and never once had nor heard of a problem. Like I said, its well documented for safety in healthy horses. Skinny horses, horses with not enough fat (minis, as you say), and horses that have fat issues do have problems, but healthy horses do not, even with documented double doses. Its a safe wormer when used properly. Most substances can kill if overdosed. The vast majority of errors and deadly occurances are because of major overdoses, over the lethal threshold of 3.1x overdose.
I deworm my foals monthly, and my adults every 2 months. I do not rotate dewormers. They get the same thing.
Nathan~ you have to learn we are not a big horse board here, it is a mini board. Minis do several things different then big horses. Something safe for a big horse may not be for a mini.
Nathan~ you have to learn we are not a big horse board here, it is a mini board. Minis do several things different then big horses. Something safe for a big horse may not be for a mini.
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