Well I quit, might as well sell the darn cabin

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Gosh Deb, for that kind of $$$ you could buy an 'honest' someone an airline ticket, fly 'em in from out of state, put them up in a nice hotel, have them

do the work and take a mini vacation with the money that's left over!

Holy Cow, that is hiway robbery.........
 
Dimimore said:
Hey Shirley, do you really think Shain & I could manage it?   Probably wouldn't look perfect but I'm down to thinking about putting cut pine boards across the tops of the counters and smacking contact paper on them suckers!  Presto...countertops!
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Yes Deb actually it's one of the easier DIY projects IMO. All you need is a router type cutter made especially for laminate about $30-40, some lattice a bit longer than the width of your project, a brayer (roller). You said you had glue--it must be contact cement--laminate and countertop substucture.

I assume you want a front edge to your countertop so you would have to apply that to the bottom of your counter top before you start. If you are putting an edge which is nothing more than additional substucture material or particle board strips attached to the bottom you would want to start with the sides. The reason being is that the sides should be sitting under the laminate material for the top so when you trim it will look much neater. Or if are you going with a wood border, skip down to the "Repeat the measuring..." paragraph.

Measure and cut your laminate side strips about 2-3" larger than the side surface you are covering. The cutter has a collar that will roll along the side and not cut too deeply. The reason for that much extra material is to keep the router from chipping it and you will get a nice clean cut.

Coat the undersides of the laminate strips with the contact cement using a short napped roller and coat the sides only of your substructure the same way. I like to use those little disposable all in one kits that has a little low napped roller with it's own plastic roller tray for the cement. When the project is done you can just toss it. Allow it to set until it's dry feeling about 20 min to 1/2 hour more or less depending on your temps and humidity. Your fingers shouldn't stick to it at all. If you have a long span you will need help when you apply it by keeping the rest of it away from the rest of the glued area because once the two surfaces touch it's a done deal and you cannot move it after that. Once it's on, use the brayer to roll it down really good.

Trim the laminate flush with the top and bottom of the edge.

Repeat the measuring of the laminate and coat the back of the laminate and top surface of the substructure. After it's dry, place your lattice strips about every 12" or so across the counter top. They won't stick and serve to keep the laminate from touching the surface until you are ready. With a helper gently place the laminate on the strips, and make sure you are centered approximately over the surface. Beginning in the middle pull out a strip an press the laminate down, repeat until you have reached on end, then do the same thing with the remaining strips starting with the one closest to the middle pressing as you go. Use the brayer again starting in the middle and work out to each end to ensure no trapped air bubbles. Now trim the laminate as you did the sides and you should have a nice neat professional looking countertop. If you have get any contact cement where you don't want it just dip a rag in mineral spirits and it will easily rub off.

Do your sink cut out with a regular router after you install the counter top. I you don't have one most home centers rent them by the hour. They might even have the litte laminate cutter for rent too. I don't know as I have my own. I have a MAJOR set of profession grade tools, compressors, nail guns in all sizes, routers, saws--you name it I've probably got it. Even my exhusband contractor borrows my stuff when he need something for a job
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My neighbor and I have threaten more than once to go into the small job contracting business, she has her own tools too. We are like Norma Vally on steroids
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If you are the least bit concerned go get some scrap materials to practice these instructions on. That way if you hit any snags you haven't wasted what you have bought. Home Depot usually has some damaged stuff they can sell for you to experiment on and probably will even give it to you for free if you tell them what you are doing. Ask one of the managers, it works for me everytime
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My first projects looked fine but suceeding ones were perfect. Just takes a bit of practice and knowing what steps should be done in what order. If I can do it anyone can. All you need is a bit of patience and practice.
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And after you are done you deserve a night on the town and horsie things for all your good work. That's where I'd rather be spending all that money rather than on the person who quoted you that obscene bid.
 
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Original contractor called me today........................asked if I got the estimate in the mail................I said yes GULP..............................she then said they could do it for $40/hr for the two of them............I asked for an estimate for the countertop ONLY! I will do the rest myself. She'll call me back tomorrow.
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Thanks for the instructions Shirley...Shain and I may just rent the equipment and give it a go. I bought the edging strips so no need to cut them at all! Just need to cut the backing board with the laminate on it.
 
Havent heard anything yet....how's it going? Maybe I should send ya my contractor, he is awesome and my bathroom will be done next week just like he said! He has removed all walls and floor and rebuilt them, putting everything back in and tiling and electricity for just under $4000.00. I finally am getting my clawfoot tub out of my front room!
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