MOLDY HARNESS YUCK!

[End Level Farms]

So after paying to have a heated storage unit while we moved and over the winter so things wouldnt get damp and wet and mouldy I went and picked everything up and its not pretty.

Everything was oiled and conditioned prior to being put in storage.

But now everything is hard and very dry and MOLDY.

What is the best way you have found to remedy the situation.

or Products you recommend.

Fiance says to clean it with the LEXOL-pH Cleaner. Let it dry and the condition fully with the moisturizing LEXOL-Conditioner.

But the lady in the store where I stopped to buy it told me it was much too expensive and to just use saddle soap and neatsfoot oil.

Another lady over heading the conversation said OHH NO You cant do that youll wreak your stuff. But to use Passier Leather Balsam (Lederbalsam) which is 10 times more expensive than the LEXOL.

So I left the store just more than a little confused.

 

[Genie]

A harness make told us to drop the leather into a pail of neatsfoot oil to soften and then wipe off with cloths after it is softened.

 

[MiLo Minis]

David Freedman of Freedman harness, one of the top harness makers in the world, has always said plain saddle soap, Fiebings Black is good, and water is the best way to clean a harness. NEVER soak your harness in oil, it will rot the stitching and ruin the harness. Most leather conditioners do more harm than good for leather. Next time you want to store your leather, give it a good cleaning and a thin coat of vaseline and it won't mold or harden on you. You can then bring it out and give it another good cleaning with soap and water and it will be fine. You will need to see if your leather is still good or if it has rotted. Once leather molds it can become quite brittle and easily broken which could be disastrous if you were to use it for driving. Get it cleaned up with soap and water and then I would take it to a good leather worker and have it checked over for any necessary repairs.

 

[Marty]

Top Job. I don't know what it is about Top Job but that kills mold on contact in leather and doesn't harm it or the stitching. I also used it to get that waxy stuff off of very pricey new saddles and bridles and it never harmed anything and works wonders. Don't go nuts with it. Just dampen a wash cloth and I mean dampen it not saturate it, the just wipe it down and afterwards I would use any oil free Lexol products or Leather New Glycerine Spray. I am like Milo Minis and do not like oil one bit on tack especially neatsfoot oil or oil based products and a nice layer of vaseline for storage really works very well.

 

[ropenride]

I'm absolutely sold on Oakwood!!! My harnesses went thru a flood and grew lovely white fluffy mold. I used the liquid saddle soap and followed up with the leather conditioner....not a problem with regrowth in 2 1/2 years, and the leather is soft and pliable. The liquid saddle soap only comes in one size, but the leather conditioner comes in 3 sizes, and the tube is enough to do a harnes several times. Neatsfoot oil (or ANY oil) will actually ATTRACT dirt to your leather. Good luck with whatever you use!!

http://www.oakwoodusa.net/liquid-saddle-soap.htm

http://www.oakwoodusa.net/leather-conditioner.htm

 

[hobbyhorse23]

I've heard over and over from many different sources that neatsfoot oil is to be avoided at all costs because it will rot the stitching. I only have experience with Leather New, but that product works well enough I've never looked for another. Lexol is another good one according to my mom, so that might be a good way to go as your fiance said.

Not to make things any more complicated, but the soap and water thing would really worry me as I've always been told that water was the worst possible thing for leather and have always needed to condition my saddle after it got soaked.

We've all seen how stiff leather gets when it's gotten wet. You've got to replace the oils that have gotten lost from dried leather, but in a way that will not rot the stitching (meaning don't soak it.)

Personally, I just buy one of the good brands like Lexol or Leather New and follow the instructions on the bottle. *shrug* As you can see, everyone has their own way of doing it!

Leia

 

[MiLo Minis]

I have had my one Freedman harness for almost 30 years now and used nothing but Fiebings Black and water to clean it and occasionally given it a new coat of harness black and it is soft, supple and strong still. Flitz metal polish on the brass and furniture polish on the patent. I don't use a ton of water, wet a rag and wring it out and rub it into the soap.