harness conversion?

[Hessel]

I bought an american harness for my mini. It was the only one I could find small enough, that would fit him well.My problem is that it is a trace-system I have never seen before. As I read about it, apparently the slits in the traces is to be slipped around the tree and then fastened with leatherstrings. Looks a little bit dangerous to me...

The only system I have ever seen here in Denmark is for a yoke (?) tree where the traces are either looped around the tree or held in hooks in the more sturdy versions. Is there a way to convert the traces into something I can use on a yoke tree, or do I really have to give up my good harness or import an american cart? The breast piece and the traces is in one piece so just replacing the traces is not realy an option either..

I have seen something called trace couplers that might do the trick, but I can't really find a picture of where it goes, so I am really not sure.

Please help?

 

[Reignmaker Miniatures]

I can't really picture what you describe your traditional system to be but perhaps if you contact the company that supplied your harness they can help you sort it out. There should really be a way to make the harness work for you. Perhaps one of our European forum users will know exactly what you need.

By the way, the american system has proven to be quite safe for me... I drive cross country over some retty rough terrain with out a problem.

 

[Hessel]

Good to know

Maybe it is easyer to just show. This is the cart I need the harness to fit: http://www.moldrup-rideudstyr.dk/shop/ImagePopup.asp?Title=Sulky+til+pony&Image=/images/07RG-SK-001-p.jpg&ProtectMessage=

 

[Minimor]

If I were you I would simply buy a singletree that will fit the harness ends & go with that. My harnesses have the traces that slip on the singletree ends and have either the leather strap or a metal pin that locks in place--I've used this kind of traces for years, with ponies and full size horses, and can say that it is a perfectly safe way to attach the traces to the single tree.

 

[brasstackminis]

Here is a link to a place where you can just get a new singletree...one that will accept your traces. As everyone else has stated, they are safe. The little strip of leather may be what is making you wonder if it is secure enough. That piece is only to keep your traces from sliding off of the end of the shaped single tree. The actual force is taken by your entire trace, which is at least 2 pieces of thick leather stitched together, and often reinforced with additional nylon straps...depending on what you have. Soooo I would just replace the single tree...super easy to do and you will be set. Here is a link to a site where they sell just this part.

http://www.ctmproduc...nSingleTree.jpg

Hope this helps!

Karen

 

[Hessel]

Thanks everyone! I think I will just go buy the new single tree. Thats probably the easiest...

 

[TMR]

They make trace conversions that you can buy. I do not like the singletrees with the little leather piece to hold the trace on. If you do any quick turn work, they can and will come off breaking the little leather piece (been there and done that

). The trace conversions buckle into your slot end traces. Check out Driving essentials website and they have pictures of the different trace ends and conversions that you can get. I am sure you can find them in Denmark as alot of the top quality driving equipment comes from the UK. I believe Zilco has some conversions also.

Donna

 

[Hessel]

Thanks for the tip! I saw one of zilcos, so I thought there might be an option. That was exatly what I was looking for.

 

[Minimor]

When you're using the slip on traces with the leather stopper--it is absolutely necessary to use the nylon straps on the singletree (the ones that prevent the singletree from swinging excessively forward/backwards) As long as the singletree doesn't turn too much and point forward, the trace isn't likely to come off. The only time I've seen a trace come off with that sort of attachment is when the singletree turned, allowing the trace to pull toward the end & then off--and yes, in that situation the leather strap is likely to break and allow the trace to come off. IMO it is dangerous anyway to not have the nylon tethers on the singletree (good way to get the horse poked in the rear end!)

 

[Hessel]

Then why not use quick release or loop traces? That way you will also have the opportunity to let the tree move with the horse? I'm new to this driving thing, so please bear with my curiosity..

 

[Minimor]

Well, if you want the honest truth I will tell you why I wouldn't use a single tree like the one in your picture--I think that is the most gosh awful looking thing I've ever seen on a cart!

On my single tree, where I do have the tether straps to keep it from moving too much--the single tree does still have enough movement to "move with the horse" and no matter what kind of ends it has on it for the traces to hook on, I simply do not want it turning perpendicular to the cart because if it were to turn that far for any reason it could easily jab the horse in the rear end. I would use tether straps no matter what.

My Smart Cart has hooks that the traces slide over--and those are nice & neat & secure--and it also comes with the tether straps in place.

 

[susanne]

The singletree still swivels with the limiter straps, but only the appropriate amount, not completely forward/back. The idea of the singletree is to move with the horse's shoulders and prevent soring; it only needs to move as much as the limiters allow.

 

[TMR]

Alot of it depends on what type of driving you are going to do. I do CDE's mainly now, but have 15 years past experience in the AMHR show ring as well and depending on what event I am doing is what equipment will be used. You do have some crossover equipment, but it is not the norm. In the showring, you are more likely to see Jerald/Graber show carts and thin harnesses (2" saddles with no breeching). Arena driving you can get away with that as you are driving on a nice flat surface and they don't want the heavier leather blocking the pretty picture. In CDE's you are going to see heavier vehicles (Benningtons, Glinkowski,Bell crown, Pacific, road carts, etc) and more substantial harnesses (3-4" saddles, breeching, and heavier breast collars). In ADS/CDE driving you are going to be dealing with quick turns, obstacles, and cross country driving, you need equipment that will hold up to the pressure and not cut into the horse. Trace attachments depend alot on what you are doing as well. You will see more quick release, roller bolt, etc in the CDE's, where in the show ring you will see more slot ends and swordtype singletrees. Just a difference in the type of show. Since you are from Denmark you will probably see much more ADS/CDE type driving than showring driving.

 

[hobbyhorse23]

Then why not use quick release or loop traces? That way you will also have the opportunity to let the tree move with the horse? I'm new to this driving thing, so please bear with my curiosity..

A carriage with roller bolts (the old-fashioned type of attachment that takes loop-end traces as I know them) should only be used with neck collars. Breastcollars move with the horse's shoulders and thus require the attachment point to move as well or it will sore the horse. The bigger the horse's movement, the more it needs to pivot! I can't tell how the parts in your picture function so I can't say which is better, but I suppose if those are essentially roller bolts mounted on a singletree it could be okay. Seems excessively complicated though and I don't like the fact it makes the traces run so uphill to the cart.

As for quick releases, I think there's a few reasons. 1) Sword-end or hook-end singletrees are the tradition in America, and as a result most of our harnesses are made with slot ends which do not work well with quick-release hardware. 2) Whipping off one of those slot-ends is just as quick as pulling a quick-release pin. 3) Quick-release hardware is HEAVY and drags down on the rear of the traces. This is fine with heavy cross-country traces going downhill to the cart as they should, but would flop and jingle annoyingly on the end of rolled leather fine harness traces that are running horizontal or uphill to a singletree mounted above the splinter-bar. 4) Quality quick-release hardware is EXPENSIVE!

I agree with those who have said that when the singletree is properly limited to only the range needed by the horse, the traces should not come off the end. I also do CDE and make some pretty high-speed turns and I've never had one even come close to releasing accidentally. On the other hand when I'm using a hook-end singletree for dragging small logs (normally more secure than a sword-end singletree) my traces slip off all the time because one end can tip further forward than is safe and then yes, the pressure pulls the trace right off the end.

Leia

 

[Katiean]

I have the same cart as you have pictured. The singletree has a big metal loop on the ends. I got bell straps (cow bell strap) and fastened them to the loops. I then buckle the traces into the bell strap. It has worked great for me. I also have a breast collar that has loops on the ends to fit over the metal loop on the singletree. I do plan on buying a different singletree.