Frustrated with clipper training

[ShadyGrovePonies]

I have a shetland and one welsh that I have tried everything to get them used to clipping and am really getting frustrated. I have tried the approach/retreat method without success (over several weeks). They are both well trained to drive and good ground manners, but every attempt at clipping muzzles and bridle paths has failed and I resort back to scissors. Have even tried twitching them, but little muzzles wiggle their way out of it or they rear up and I lose my grip on it. They really are not spooky or afraid - just bite and strike at the clippers. The blades are sharp and the clippers are not hot.

Any suggestions? How do you all get the perfectly clipped heads, muzzles, bridle paths? Do you twitch? Put them in stocks? Do you sedate them?

 

[squeaky]

I just do a little at a time. Maybe rub the clippers (turned off) on the horse's head and ears, and reward them for standing still (you may want to do this for a few days). Then turn on the clippers, and just rub them around their head and nose. Most horses will wiggle their muzzle when you clip it, as it does tickle. Just remember to stay calm and just reward them when they stand still. I usually only work with the clippers for a few minutes on one spot, and will quit once the horse stands still for me clipping the area or rubbing the clippers in one spot. Then the next day, I do a little bigger area, and stop when the horse stands still for my clipping/rubbing.

ETA: If I twitch, I usually do a hand twitch. As for approach and retreat method, I have found that it is not as effective with clippers. I do the above method, and have had much more success rather than the approach retreat method.

Hope this helps!

Amanda

 

[ruffian]

Try working around them with a hair dryer/blow dryer. They get the sensation without you having to be too close, Just make sure it doesn't get too hot - medium or low heat is fine. Once they stop jumping t that, work in the clippers.

 

[Genie]

I buy the plastic clips at the hardware store and clip the nose.

They are easier to handle than a twitch and serve the same purpose. After the cip is on for 30 or 40 seconds the horse is concentrating on the clip and not the clippers.

 

[Minimor]

I've never had trouble clipping a bridle path--even if they've never had their bridle paths clipped before they generally give in if I persist. Sometimes I'll start with a scissor clip if the horse really objects to clippers, but make sure they are blunt nose scissors because someone could get seriously hurt if sharp nosed ones are used and the horse jerks his head the wrong way. I make sure I never dive the clippers into the middle of the mane when I'm starting to clip--if the bridle path has grown out & the mane is thick, the clippers will always give a loud growl if you do it that way. So, I'll start along one side & just clip a small bit of mane, then move over & do another thin swath--it keeps the clippers running quieter and the horse accepts it better. Jaws have never been a problem either--muzzles can be a little ticklish. Most of my horses don't mind it--I did have one pony that would rear & strike the first time I tried to clip his muzzle but with a bit more handling overall he gave that up right away & he's good about having his head clipped now. I had one Morgan that apparently thought the clippers under her jaw/chin were an oversized nosefly and she wanted no part of them--I always scissor clipped her--that worked because she didn't have much of a 'beard', so I didn't have to bother with a twitch or sedation.

I've got two that are very twitchy about their legs; the gelding is getting better, I have progressed to clipping his hind legs with clippers. His fronts I still have to clip with scissors but that's much less of a struggle than it was to start with. For some reason he is convinced that I'm going to cut off his legs rather than just trim some hair off of them!

 

[Riverrose28]

You've already gotten some good advice, but I put the horse in the cross ties with a hay bag, so they can nibble. With clippers off I groom the horse as always then sratch their neck, with the clipper off I let them sniff, then rub on the neck while still sctraching, then rub clippers on the neck still off. Turn clippes on and while still sctaching I start to clip some of the neck until the horse starts to relax and appriciate the feel. Then I move on to the bridle path. I only take one step at a time, as clipping the muzzle is ticklish to them and takes more time. I hate using a twitch, but sometimes it is necessary on ears. Patience will pay off.

 

[JMS Miniatures]

Explain what you do during your approach and retreat method. Are you trying to touch them with the clippers? I have used the approach and retreat method with great success. I would first desensitize them to the air space first. If they are that bad I wouldn't even bother turning them on at first. If they are good retreat and rub, but take the clippers away. If they are good all over then repeat it with the clippers turned on. Just get them use to the sound. Once they are good with the sound of the clippers running I would start rubbing the clippers all over the body, I wouldn't have the clippers on at this time till he is really good then turn them on and just let him get use to the viberation. I would start at the back, then down the hindquarters, towards the neck and then go further down. The last thing I would do is the head and I would repeat all those steps and focous on the head. Its the sounds and viberation that makes the horses nervous so let them get use to that and you shouldn't have any problems with clipping. At Nationals I didn't have my twitch but instead of buying a new one I have worked on being able to lead them by the ear which is a lot of approach and retreat and my one I was able to clip without using a twitch at all for the ears and the other he wasn't quite as good but we were able to get it done without using a twitch. Just a lot of time and effort.

 

[disneyhorse]

Muzzles are really ticklish.

I start clipping other places first, like the neck or cheeks... Some of my worst offenders look motheaten by the end of winter (I clip with the hair) but persistence is key. If I twitch, I just grab their nose with my free hand.

 

[ShadyGrovePonies]

Explain what you do during your approach and retreat method. Are you trying to touch them with the clippers? I have used the approach and retreat method with great success. I would first desensitize them to the air space first. If they are that bad I wouldn't even bother turning them on at first. If they are good retreat and rub, but take the clippers away. If they are good all over then repeat it with the clippers turned on. Just get them use to the sound. Once they are good with the sound of the clippers running I would start rubbing the clippers all over the body, I wouldn't have the clippers on at this time till he is really good then turn them on and just let him get use to the viberation. I would start at the back, then down the hindquarters, towards the neck and then go further down. The last thing I would do is the head and I would repeat all those steps and focous on the head. Its the sounds and viberation that makes the horses nervous so let them get use to that and you shouldn't have any problems with clipping. At Nationals I didn't have my twitch but instead of buying a new one I have worked on being able to lead them by the ear which is a lot of approach and retreat and my one I was able to clip without using a twitch at all for the ears and the other he wasn't quite as good but we were able to get it done without using a twitch. Just a lot of time and effort.

Yes, basically like you have described with the approach and retreat. One exception is to start at the back - I haven't tried that yet and will do that next time. They are fine with the rubbing the clipper on them turned off, but as soon as I turn it on, they start backing away before I get even close to them with it. I do think I am just need to be more patient and more consistant. Thanks!

 

[ShadyGrovePonies]

Try working around them with a hair dryer/blow dryer. They get the sensation without you having to be too close, Just make sure it doesn't get too hot - medium or low heat is fine. Once they stop jumping t that, work in the clippers.

Good idea! I will try that. I would also like to get them used to being vacuumed, so that would be a good start.

 

[ShadyGrovePonies]

I buy the plastic clips at the hardware store and clip the nose.

They are easier to handle than a twitch and serve the same purpose. After the cip is on for 30 or 40 seconds the horse is concentrating on the clip and not the clippers.

What kind of plastic clip? Do you mean the plastic clamps like to hold two boards together?

 

[JMS Miniatures]

Yes, basically like you have described with the approach and retreat. One exception is to start at the back - I haven't tried that yet and will do that next time. They are fine with the rubbing the clipper on them turned off, but as soon as I turn it on, they start backing away before I get even close to them with it. I do think I am just need to be more patient and more consistant. Thanks!

Are they fine with it on just going over the air space?

 

[ShadyGrovePonies]

Are they fine with it on just going over the air space?

Yes, I can have the clippers running around them and next to them, but when I try to get any closer than a foot or so - that's when we have the problem.

 

[MiLo Minis]

What kind of plastic clip? Do you mean the plastic clamps like to hold two boards together?

That's what I use if I need a "twitch". They are spring clamps with plastic covers on the clamp part. I use them as a last resort though and have very seldom ever had to use them for anything other than ears. One thing you can do that quite often makes the clippers more acceptable is to stuff their ears with cotton. This also helps to keep the hair from falling into the ear when you are clipping the insides.

I start with the clippers off, let them check them out and then rub them all over with them off. Once they are okay with that I will turn them on and just walk around them without touching them till they stand quietly and ignore them. Then I move to their shoulder and run the clippers over their shoulder till they are accepting then I move down the leg. I do the legs first while they are less likely to get bored and restless. I do the neck and head next and then the body. If you handle their ears and face gently when you are grooming them to get them used to being touched all over it helps when it comes time to clip.

 

[JMS Miniatures]

Then I would just try and find a starting point and if they react I wouldn't take the pressure away until they stand still and relax. It sounds like this problem can be fixed, just don't release that pressure if they are nervous and scared otherwise they will learn that if they misbehave the pressure will go away.

 

[ruffian]

Good idea! I will try that. I would also like to get them used to being vacuumed, so that would be a good start.

Vacuuming didn't seem to be an issue at all with any of mine - they loved it. I was quite surprised how readily they accepted that.

 

[Marty]

I keep a little battery operated mustache clipper around. They are great to get started with. They are super quiet and you can get away with a lot using them. Just be careful because they clip really close and are very sharp.

 

[txminipinto]

I sedate mine. There are 2 reasons horses don't like clipping 1) anxiety and fear 2) they've blown up before and gotten away with it so they keep doing it. All of our foals get clipped at some point before weaning and we do not sedate for those clip jobs unless we are going to a show and have to get legs and ears done correctly. The older horses are sedated as needed. At the first sign of resistance, we always start with a twitch (which releases endorphines that should relax the horse). If we are still unable to get the job finished, then we resort to sedation.

Now, a lot of people do not have a good understanding of sedation/anesthesia and how it works. Yes, there are risks involved with it. I happen to be a RVT with over 12 years experience in sedation and anesthesia so I am much more comfortable with it than the general lay person. Sedation allows the job to be completed successfully without anxiety, fear, and the physical fighting that ensues when a horse is scared. It relaxes the horse and allows the experience to be a pleasant one, which in turn, will allow the next clip job to be less stressful.

We've had horses here that would set back and try to bolt the second the clippers were turned on. But after an entire season of several clip jobs with sedation in the beginning, they progressed to standing still with a twitch for the legs and ears. The whole point of training is to teach a horse to accept an unnatural stimulus in a positive manner. If you are physically restraining/wrestling with them to get the job done, that is not positive. It just creates more anxiety, more fear, and bigger struggle the next time you need to clip them.

If you have only one or two horses and no place to be, you just want to be able to clip them then yes, you can slowly get them used to the clippers. But if you have plans to attend a rated show or you have more than 2 that need to be clipped well, sedation is the way to go.

I know I have a well adjusted horse when I clip them and DON'T have to call in the hubby to hold a twitch. He likes it that way too.

 

[ShadyGrovePonies]

Feel like I made some real progress with the one gelding today! I bought a little pair of Oster Minimax clippers and just sat on the step playing with him and holding clippers around his halter. He didn't pull

back or move his feet. Eventually, i got some of his muzzle clipped and some of his bridle path, then quit on a good note.

Thanks for all the tips. I will be working with them and trying all the ideas.

 

[Riverrose28]

Thats great, patience and repetition will pay off. Please excuse my spelling, not sure repetition is correct spelling but I'm sure you know what I mean. Good for you for keeping on trying.