how to condition new harness

[shorthorsemom]

I am sure this topic has been visited, but I can't find the string. I have a new harness I bought last year sitting un-used in a plastic tote. My trainer wants me to condition it before we use it. She gave me a couple of suggestions as to what to use, but I thought I would poll you experienced driving ladies as to what you put on your harness to condition it the first time to see what other people are using on new leather.

My trainer says I don't want the sweat to be the first thing that goes into the leather. I bought this harness last year but haven't used it yet because my driving boy came with his own harness and I have been using that. My new harness needs breaking in, it is a nice harness and a better fit saddle and I think it will fit my boy nicely.

Do you all use needsfoot oil, Lexol, murphys oil soap? I went to the horse supply store and just stood there reading labels and came home with nothing. Adair

 

[RhineStone]

NO NEATSFOOT OIL! There are some very good conditioners out there without having to go that route.

I use Lexol because it is readily available. Stubben Hamenol is also recommended as well as Oakwood. Harness Honey also works.

Murphy's Oil is more of a cleaner than a conditioner.

Myrna

 

[Sue_C.]

I use Lexol as well, but have to remark that it is neats foot oil COMPOUND that is bad for stitching...not PURE NEATSFOOT oil.

 

[RhineStone]

From an article on Carriage Driving.net quoting David Freedman, one of the premier harness makers in the world http://www.carriagedriving.net/index.php?m=a&a=19

"Step 3: Condition the leather.

Leather will dry out over time, and restoring the fats and oils that were "stuffed" into the leather during the tanning process will keep it supple and beautiful. Leather that becomes too dry will be stiff and likely to crack, needing repair. Look for a semi-solid conditioner that contains animal fats, as this is closer to the compounds used to tan the leather in the first place. Stay away from neatsfoot oil and dressings based primarily on neatsfoot oil, as it could lead to damage to the stitching in your harness.Your harness may not need to be conditioned after every cleaning; experience will help you determine how often to treat it. Apply the conditioner of your choice while the harness is still slightly damp, as the pores of the leather are open at this point and the conditioner can be absorbed fully."

(Emphasis added by me. I don't make this stuff up. If David won't use it, you can bet your booties I won't either when there are so many other good conditioners out there.)

Myrna

 

[Sue_C.]

Yes Myrna, neatsfoot oil COMPOUND...which is not PURE neatsfoot...will certainly rot stitching, and no, I am not saying "you made it up", but will say that David Freedman was most certainly speaking of the compound, not the pure neatsfoot oil.

All that said and considered, I do prefer Lexol, especially on light leathers, as it doesn't darken the leather as the pure oil does.

 

[Minimor]

I use olive oil. That was suggested to me by a harness maker 30 some years ago and I've been using it ever since. Before anyone squawks that olive oil is a terrible thing to use on leather, remember that olive oil is an ingredient of glycerine soap, a common leather cleaner. I do love my glycerine saddle soap--used to use the bar soap variety but ran out & none of the tack stores sell it any more, so now I just use leather new for cleaning. For just plain conditioning without cleaning, though, I use the olive oil.

It's readily available locally (unlike products such as harness honey, which has to be ordered & shipped to me) and has worked well to keep my tack in good condition--some of my big horse tack is easily 30 years old, maybe older, and it's still in wonderful condition--well used, but still strong and soft.